The Hidden Path
Clinging precariously to the rock ledges of Crater Cove lies a small scattering of historic fisherman’s huts which have been constructed from locally found materials such as beach rocks, driftwood, old timber, corrugated iron and vintage bottles. Their rustic appeal attracts a few adventurous hikers, like those who persist in finding the hidden path! This outing includes the historic huts at Crater Cove, as well as a section of the much loved Spit Bridge to Manly walk.
Crater Cove – Hidden Path to the Huts
The Crater Cove Lookout at Dobroyd Scenic Drive, Balgowlah Heights offers expansive 180 degree views over the harbour. It’s the perfect place to start your walk to Crater Cove and Manly… and it’s all downhill 🙂
It had been 9 years since our last visit to the ‘cove settlement’. We were curious to see the state of the old fisherman’s huts, but could we still find the hidden path!
It’s obvious the National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) don’t want to encourage visitors to the cove. There are no signposts, nor any mention of the huts on their website. Fortunately there are many other sites including Google that provide information on finding the huts – see map below.
Finding the Hidden Path
Very close to the Crater Cove Lookout is a well established bush track. This is the main track leading down to the harbour foreshore and on to Manly. To find the hidden path, follow the track as it heads north east through the scrub and down a large set of stairs. Not far from the base of the stairs, and just past the track to Beatty Street, is the hidden path which branches off the main track to the right.
The hidden path is narrow, rough and at times quite muddy. It appears as a tunnel through the trees. Having good hiking boots and a willingness to scramble over rocks is needed for this walk… and it’s worth it!
Historic Huts
After 10 minutes on the track you will arrive at the clifftop huts, located at the eastern end of the cove. What an idyllic setting, perched on the cliffs and surrounded by the fabulous Sydney Harbour! You will find a number of stone pathways and bush tracks that lead you to other huts in the settlement.
Although the huts appear quite fragile, they are still standing after decades of exposure to the elements… and some abuse by vandals! Scattered around the huts are old buoys, kettles and other rustic remains, harking back to a time when life was much more simple.
NPWS Volunteers
Except for a handful of visitors and an NPWS volunteer, we were the only ones there… and a few eastern water dragons as well! Usually a NPWS volunteer maintains the huts and gardens, I believe they have some connection to the history of the settlement.
Being such a fragile area it is understandable that the NPWS volunteers are concerned about inconsiderate visitors scrambling over the site. Please don’t enter or climb on the huts, and whatever you do, don’t ask the volunteers if they live there! They really don’t like being asked too many questions, especially this one 🙂
A Little History
The huts that are still standing today were apparently built between 1923 and 1963 for recreational purposes. Although not originally intended to be permanently occupied, there was a small group of people who called this place home during the 70s and 80s. They were searching for a simpler way of living, and they had found it! Sadly for the residents of the cove, the NPWS felt that national parks were not places for human habitation, they were evicted in 1987. The longest term resident was Simon, and this had been his home for 18 years!
Crater Cove to Manly
After spending a good 45 minutes at the cove, we headed off to Manly. The main track takes you through coastal scrub and tall gumtree forests. As you wind your way along the shoreline, past tiny sheltered beaches and stunning harbour vistas, its easy to appreciate why this is a much loved walk.
Reef Beach
The first secluded beach you encounter is Reef Beach, which is easily accessed by stairs from the main track. This is a great little spot if you fancy a quick dip… or just want to cool off under one of the large shady trees that overhangs the beach and rocks.
Forty Baskets Beach
Tucked neatly into Manly Cove, this gorgeous little beach offers beautiful views, calm waters and shaded grass areas.
North Harbour Reserve to Manly
Continuing on from Forty Baskets, past Davis Marina you will eventually arrive at North Harbour Reserve. If you’re hanging for a coffee or bite to eat there’s a small café ’40 Beans’… we preferred to wait until we got to Manly.
When you get a little closer to Manly, the track turns into a well paved footpath, with lawns and gardens down to the waterfront. You’re on the home stretch now!
Manly Eat & Drink
After 3+ hours on the track and no lunch we felt we deserved something a little more substantial than a sandwich and coffee. What was intended to be a late lunch was now turning into a drink and dinner 🙂
Upon our arrival in Manly we were delighted to discover the Bistro at the Manly Pavilion. What a stunning setting, tucked neatly into the western end of Manly Cove and protected from the blinding westerly sun! With fabulous harbour views, it was the perfect place for this balmy spring evening… and there were tables available on the balcony as well.
We started with drinks and nibbles and finished the evening with a lovely dinner, quietly watching the harbour softly fade to dark.
Information
Where: Dobroyd Scenic Drive, Balgowlah Heights to Manly
Website: Spit Bridge to Manly Walk and Historic Huts
Allow: 3 hours for walking
Getting there: Drive to the Crater Cove Lookout
Also see: Other Historic Sites
Map
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Thanks for thus great article Robyn x
My pleasure Jill – it’s a fabulous location! xx
What an exciting day and beautiful discovery. So loved doing this walk!! Highly recommend to any keen bushwalker, photographer and visitor to Sydney wanting to get off the beaten track 🙂
I wish I had seen your blog before today. We saw the huts from the main track but were not confident of the side track down to Crater Cove. It would have been brilliant to see them up close. Such history, such beauty, such tantalising thoughts of what it would have been like to live there. I hope they continue to survive.
Oh how disappointing!!! They are such a treasure and with the location being so well hidden I’m sure they will survive until at least your next visit 🙂 It’s always so peaceful there with only a few visitors, the lizards and birds.
There are so many fabulous sights around Sydney that many people aren’t aware of… some captured here here on my blog so hope you have time to check out more :)))
Enjoy
Robyn
I did not actually live there but I spent many days and nights in this community. In one of the hits there was even a piano. It was a great spot and a great life. I think it would be very sad if these historical huts were not maintained and heritage listed
What a fabulous experience to have spent time at the huts, when people were living there! I will also be sad if they’re not maintained, they should be heritage listed!
Thanks for sharing your memory 🙂
Robyn